Extreme this, extreme that.

I am getting on my soap box here. Sometimes I think things are all about "more extreme". It used to be 33's were big and a limited slip was true off-road. Now unless you have at least 37's, custom suspension, locked Dana 60's, and no regard for carnage it seems that you are inadequate. I look at my CJ at recent trail runs and I am the little guy. Now I am all for new and cool stuff, also, I am not "stuck-in-my-ways" or necessarily "old-school".

To me Jeeping is about the challenge of getting your Jeep to go over or through obstacles on the trail. If you have a Jeep with 33's and a limited slip you are obviously not going to be able to do what those moon buggy looking rigs can do. Here's the question, who cares? I believe that pushing the limits with any vehicle regardless of it's equipment is what makes Jeeping fun.

Taking a relatively stock Jeep, putting a mild lift, bigger tires (33-35), and and maybe a rear locker makes a well equipped Jeep for weekend Jeeping and can still be a daily driver without spending a fortune. If you get stuck on the trail with this kind of Jeep it doesn't mean it's under done, it means you are having fun. (I didn't mean to rhyme there) Getting stuck either means you pushed your Jeep's limits or you need more trail technique practice. I have watched guys with Jeeps with 32's (left-hey Chris-maybe you remember what happened next?) do things that others with bigger and more can't because of style and finesse. It's a fine line and some of us just get it.

It's an interesting evolution this need for extreme. You start out with a stock Jeep and wheel it. You decide on some upgrades and you wheel it. You realize old stuff is now easy and you try harder stuff but soon learn your Jeep's limits so you upgrade again. Now the new old stuff is easy and you try even harder and you soon learn your Jeep's new limits not to mention a probable experience with the Just Empty Ever Pocket (J.E.E.P) syndrome. So the cycle continues.

It seems that like everything else in this country, unless it's extreme it's boring. Get a Jeep do something to it and use it. There's lots of stuff out there for the weekend warriors.

Towing and weight ratings

We get quite a few questions on this, in some ways a lot of ratings do not make any sense and cause a bit of confusion and debate about the Jeep crowd. In many ways I am mystified by some of the ratings too, especially when it comes to the new JK. The rated towing capacity of a 2 door and 4 door JK is 3500lbs, a Liberty is 5000lbs. I can see the JK rating on a 2 door but a 4 door too? The 4 door is longer and wider than the Liberty, hmm. I really like the image in the official Jeep brochure that shows a JK pulling a trailer with a CJ-5 on it, that seems close to exceeding the limit to me. A CJ-5 typically weighs in at 3000+lbs and a dual axle car trailer usually weighs in at 1500 lbs. Doesn't that add to 4500lbs? I realize there are ultra-lightweight trailers out there but the one pictured doesn't look like one.

Maybe a clarification on some common weight rating terminology.
GVWR - Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. This is the total maximum weight of the vehicle including passengers and cargo.
GCWR - Gross Combined Weight Rating. This is the total weight of the towing vehicle and what's being towed.

In most states exceeding either of the above (and getting caught) can result in a citation of some kind. I have also heard stories of individuals getting into accidents and being denied a claim by insurance due to exceeding the above.

The towing situation above is probably best left to a more qualified vehicle. I have towed Jeeps with all kinds of vehicles and a full size truck still is my favorite. Why take chances, wrecking one vehicle is bad enough, two? ugh!

Related article: Trailering Safety and Trailer Hitch Information

Crazy Jeep engine conversions

I get many questions about so-and-so wanting to swap an engine into his/her Jeep. It seems so often that someone wants to do a swap based on an engine thats available at the time. Either they already have it, can get it for nothing, or it's real cheap.

Doing a swap based entirely based on the cheapness of the engine is proabably a bad move. Especially if the engine is not something typically used in Jeep swaps. My advice stick with 3 makes. AMC, Chevy, and Ford.

I am assuming your swap involves replacing some engine in a Jeep CJ. YJ and TJ swaps are cool (I can't wait to see a JK swap) but not nearly as common due to emission laws and the fact the 4.0L is such a good engine for a trail Jeep. Still, I like a V8. Also, I can't possibly cover all the variables involved with swaps here.

Related articles: Jeep Engine Swaps, V8 Conversions

AMC - Since this was available from Jeep in 72-80(ish) CJ's this is probably your easiest swap out there. Find a set of Jeep V8 motor mounts and most components will bolt up. You may need a heavier raditor and to fix up some wiring, also a complete replacement of the exhaust.

More on AMC V8 Details: AMC Small Block V8 Engine Info

Chevy - Just about any imaginable thing you can put in and on an engine probably exists for a small block Chevy. Practically unchanged for a bazillion years, reliable, and very affordable. Several companies make products to make this swap a snap, Advance Adapters and Novak to name a few.

Ford - Almost as popular as Chevy with a loyal following. Also, several companies make products to make these swaps a snap, Advance Adapters and Novak to name a few.

Back to the cheap factor usually involving some strange engine, like a diesel or Cadillac V8. These swaps have been done, and done right, but usually require excellent fabrication skills and imagination. Not to mention the possible and probable "add-on" costs incurred by the dreaded nickle-and-dime items. I prefer to "not re-invent the wheel " when doing an engine swap. I use my Jeeps, mostly on the trail, it makes for a long day when you are out in the middle of nowhere and your jury-rigged swap encounters Murphy.

Headers vs. Manifolds - Which is better?

Another one of those age old debates. Are headers better than manifolds or are manifolds better than headers. In the typical Jeeper type answer - it depends. Personally on a trail Jeep manifolds will get the job done and sometimes will be an advantage.

Manifolds: More restriction usually equals more low end torque. Torque is good on a trail Jeep that spends all day moving at 2mph. Manifolds also are less prone to exhaust leaks. I have spent a good amount of money on header gaskets, even gimmicky ones that still fail eventually. I guess crappy headers can't help the situation, but find a set of "good" headers for an AMC V8 in a CJ. Manifolds will pass the heat along downstream in the exhaust system reducing underhood temperature. The down side is

Headers: Less restriction allows for freer flow at higher rpm. Since most trail Jeeps never see rpm of any significance it seems that headers may not provide any benefit. On a Jeep racer or street warrior headers may make more sense.

You need to decide based on your intentions with your Jeep.

Related article: CJ-5 Frame Replacement. I replaced the frame on my CJ a while back and eliminated the headers. I am happy about that move to this day.

The Jeep Wave

Most of us who have owned a Jeep have experienced the Jeep Wave. To some newbie Jeep owners it's a source of confusion until either; you figure it out or someone explains it to you. It's a fun following unique to only a few types of vehicles.

Around the internet there are many pages dedicated to defining who you should wave to and how you should wave. They are fun and entertaining. Some even have complex point scales obviously impossible to figure out within the time of a wave, but fun nonetheless.

My favorite is one I believe was written by Michael Meadows while attending Marshall University in WV. He describes variations in the wave and has a rating system that involves the type of Jeep, age, modifications, etc. See an exerpt "The Jeep Wave"

Personally I don't initiate a wave with Jeeps that are not a CJ, YJ, TJ, JK but I will wave back if the other driver waves.

Rule to live by: If in doubt, just wave.

Lower Crawl Ratio - Transmission, Transfer Case, or Differentials?

This is an age old debate, whether to change differentials to lower your crawl ratio or change the transfer case gears or change the transmission. Here is my opinion - FWIW - that's "for what it's worth" in internet-eze.

The problem: You feel you need lower something to achieve a higher crawl ratio. Crawl ratio is the overall drive ratio usually calculated from 1st gear, transfer case, differential. Let's say you are (the old) me and your Jeep has a T150 3 speed, Dana 20 transfer case, and 3.54:1 differential gears. If you were (the old) me and you just left a day of wheeling you have felt like you just ran an off-road rally because you just can't slow down a Jeep equipped in this way! I digress a minute. To figure out crawl ratio using my Jeep (the old way - we will get there) take 1st gear (2.99:1), transfer case (2.03:1), and differential (3.54) and multiply them. You should get 21.48 quite frankly that sucks. I think somewhere between 50:1 and 70:1 makes a good ratio for a non-extreme trail Jeep.

Transfer case (t/c) gears: I usually think this provides the best bang for the buck. The cost is kept down by 1. not having to buy 2 sets of gears 2. not having to buy diff rebuild kits. 3. Labor - The labor can be the most costly. Changing differential gears is not for the garage/tool challenged. One may be able to install one of these kits for $600-$1000 depending on the transfer case and ratio option. Another plus to this is your highway ratio would be unaffected since the lower ratio only is effective in low range. The down side. If your highway gears are too high this won't help and also, the new lower low range will add more effective torque output putting more strain on your driveshaft, differential, and axles. This low ratio t/c to high ratio diff may be too much of a difference and you may have trouble.

Differential Gears: This method will definitely cost more. Ring and pinion, rebuild kit, and labor may add up to $1000 per axle. The new ratio will change both your trail gears and highway gears. The change may be good for those tall tires you just fitted up. Changing diff gears relieves the stress on the transmission, transfer case, and driveshafts because the lower differential ratio allows the differential to be turned easier effectively moving the torque onto the axles.

Transmission: Changing the transmission is only a good option if your current is either to badly geared or unable to handle your engine. In my case a 2.99:1 first gear had to go. Most transmissions are around 4:1 plus. Changing transmissions may require adapters, driveshaft resizing, and alterations to the floor for shifter levers.

Pretend your me again. You need a better crawl ratio and you could use an improvement in highway gears too. You decide on a T-18 as the transmission, 6.32:1 1st gear, factory Jeep offering, and not to mention the thing is almost unbreakable. You also find the need for air lockers, and you think if I am spending money on labor to set up an air locker, why not do gears at the same time.

The result and comparision. The Jeep is now quite comfortable on the trail, controlled and predictable. To compare ratios.

T150 - 2.99 * D20 - 2.03 * 3.54 diffs = 21.48 :(

T18 - 6.32 * D20 - 2.03 * 4.10 diffs = 52.60 :)

Those changes yielded more than double the reduction, but there were substantial costs involved.

Conclusion: Inexpensive=Transfercase. Expensive=diff gears. Can be expensive and require more time and possibly fabrication skills=transmission. You will need to be the judge for your own Jeep. There are more variables than I can list here, send me a message if you have a question.

Related Articles: Wide Trak CJ-5 and ARB Air Lockers, CJ T-18A Transmission Swap, Dana 300 4:1 Tera Low, Transfer Case Upgrades, Modifications, and Options

Question: My Liberty makes a howling noise when turning.

Rrrrooooowwwwaawahh. I know that sound personally, it is usually a sound coming from the rear differential. Your Liberty probably has the off-road package and has a trak-lock in there. BTW the Liberty off-road package added a few skid plates namely under the front diff, transfer case skid, and gas tank skid. This package also included tow hooks (2 in the front and 1 in the rear.

The howling sound is the clutches rubbing on each other. A similar situation to turning with a locker. Usually the sound is more pronounced while backing and turning tightly. A good test to see if it's the rear. Back up straight then turn and see if the noise happens when turning in reverse. Then try backing in a straight line and without stopping, shift the Liberty into neutral then turn while rolling backward. What this does is take the torque off the differential and the clutches in the trak-lock will release. If there is no sound you have found the source of the noise.

Personally, I have had a few Jeeps over the years and several with howling trak-locks, I usually ignored the noise and never had a problem, the noise does seem to get louder over age. Some suggestions; try changing the gear oil (make sure you use approved oil for the trak-lock) or have it looked at by someone qualified.

Keep wheeling those Libertys.

Liberty Products at jeepfan.com

Question: Jeep Production Numbers

I have been asked by a few for the Jeep production numbers over the years. After scouring the internet and consulting a few reliable sources here is what I can find. If you think I am wrong, as usual let me know.

802,086* - Wrangler TJ 1996-2006
632,231 - Wrangler YJ 1987-1995
27,792 - CJ-8
379,299 - CJ-7 1976-1986
603,303 - CJ-5 1954-1983

Those are some large numbers and it shows just how many TJ's are out there. They should be readily available for years to come. The Wrangler Unlimited (LJ) was available 2003-2006. *The TJ was sold in 1996 as a 1997, also includes LJ. There is some dispute about the 2006 total, some sources say the number is for the calendar year not the model year which would include the JK. The information is trivial and just for fun anyway.



We have a large compiled list covering individual models per year spanning 1945-2006. See Jeep Production Numbers list.

Jeep Security - Keeping your stuff yours!

We all know the fun and freedom of a convertible vehicle, we also know the potential security problems with them also. Some of us have been the victim of theft from our Jeeps. I feel it beneficial to go over some common sense practices when leaving your Jeep somewhere. Realistically, if someone wants something bad enough in your Jeep (or heaven forbid, your Jeep itself) it's difficult to stop a determinined criminal. Taking steps to prevent this Jeep tragedy from happening are sometimes our only means.

In general keep objects in your Jeep out of sight, a theif in this case is usually an opportunist looking for a quick grab and go. They usually aren't going to take the time to look around. Don't invite a problem by advertising something. Know where you are leaving your Jeep - an incident can happen anywhere (sometimes the best places make the best targets) but some places may be more prone to problems.


If your Jeep has a hard top, lock it up, keeping in mind the above.

If your Jeep has a soft top with lockable doors - lock it up, keeping in mind the above but remember a soft top is easily cut open.

If your Jeep has a soft top without lockable doors - Your top isn't really doing anything for you except keeping things dry. At least the person interested in your stuff hopefully will not damage anything since they can just open the door.

No top - Anything inside is just a reach away - if it's not there it can't be taken!


Options to help reduce your risk. Tuffy Security Products manufactures a variety of high quality lockable items that you can add to your Jeep to help. Cargo drawers, center consoles, glove boxes, and underhood lockable storage are just some examples of what they offer.

We have identified and reviewed many of the Tuffy products on jeepfan.com.



Tuffy Security Products details and reviews at jeepfan.com

Tuffy Security Products company site

Baking in the sun, soaking in the rain - protect your interior

For those of you lucky enough to live in an area that allows you to go topless with your Jeep for more than a few days in a row we envy you. If you are like me you may want to consider something to help protect your Jeep's interior when the top is off. If you have an old Jeep with nothing inside, no carpets, no real electronics or have a newer Jeep and just don't care then maybe I have no advice for you.

I had a 1980 CJ-7, had nothing on it but a bikini top on it for 3 months in a PA summer. I used a big garbage bag when I new it would rain just to keep the seat dry. That was the best summer with a Jeep. In later years I had a new 1989 Wrangler, it had full carpet and nice cloth seats, I really didn't want that wet but still wanted the hard top off. I invested in a cab cover and bikini top from Bestop. The cab cover was used to cover it when it was parked and the bikini top seemed to do just fine in the case it was raining and I was driving. There were times though I wish there was something better. Read on...

My buddy Glenn has a Windbreaker bikini top for his CJ-7. This is a clever bikini top that contains sides and a back that will cover up your Jeep in a few minutes. (TJ model shown on the left) These tops do not require framing and store within itself. Originally sold by Rock Gear (out of business it seems) now sold by Viking Offroad. This top allows the flexibility of a top for protection from the elements and fast removability and storability unlike a regular soft top.

Jeep mods are Jeep mods - good, bad, ugly but still mods

I see all different kinds of Jeeps around the internet. From ones that sit on 40" Boggers to ones that are slammed-to-the-ground low riders (shown on left). Personally I can't see why anyone would make a Jeep a low rider in any way or do anything to a Jeep that lowers it's stance. It just seems wrong but who am I to judge. (If this is your Jeep no offense) I think the real point is that it is good to see anyone doing some sort of modifcation to a Jeep. Times change and peoples tastes change - there isn't any real right or wrong. It is in the eyes of the beholder.

The Jeep has been called the "ultimate template" waiting for someone to change something on it. Jeeps are not meant to spend their lives just carrying you from one place to another. They are meant to carry you up, down, through, over, and whatever else in a way that defines you.

It seemed for a few years a way back that the automotive industry was slowing down, low horsepower, plain looking vehicles didn't give a good starting point. There wasn't a whole lot out there to get, some modifications weren't legal (some still aren't at that) and some just weren't worth doing. In the late 90's the off road world seemed to come alive. Trail riding and Jeep modification took off and is still going strong today. There are now so many Jeep products out there it is hard for some to choose. Thanks to the internet finding and researching stuff for your Jeep is easier than ever!

I think the new JK Wrangler and Wrangler Unlimited will make a fine addition to the Jeeping community. The new four door Unlimited will bring a new crowd of Jeepers that maybe would never consider buying a 2 door because of a family, need for space, street ride, etc...The new four door will probably bring back an old crowd too.

Ditch the BBD Carburetor

Question: I am rebuilding my 1984 CJ 4.2L and would like to scrap that old computer controlled carb, any suggestions?

Answer: The Carter BBD carb has always been problematic, I personally fought with one of these until a Chevy V8 found it's way in. I have seen many options for this. First you should decide if you want to keep a carburetor or make the jump to fuel injection. I am not going to debate EFI here but rather list just options. Make sure your conversion is smog legal where you live. Most of the EFI systems are.

Fuel Injection: Mopar - Mopar makes an EFI system that is similar to the system found on the later model 4.0L engines in the following models Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, Wrangler YJ, Wrangler TJ. This system will require the largest installation time and cost the most. Howell - Howell makes a throttle body system that just replaces the carburetor, fuel pump, and electronics. Personally I know someone who did this conversion and has had good success. See Matt's Jeep. Holley - Holley makes a similar system to the Howell.

Carburetors: Weber - This is a common conversion with good results. The all mechanical carb removes all eletronics from the fuel system. Motorcraft 2100 - This carb can be found for cheap, rebuilt and bolted right to the Jeep, you may need to play with the choke. This will most likely move your Jeep to non-smog legal though.

Dreaming

I would like to go on record as to what I would like to see in my Jeep corral. If anybody has one of these out there they'd like to donate :) let me know. In the following order from most wanted.

1. 1973 - 75 CJ-5 Renegade, Yellow, 304, T-14 - Mostly stock, maybe a 2" lift with 31's or 32's just for looks. I have always loved this Jeep, probably my favorite. The hood striping, aluminum wheels, and rear sport bar just seems to strike a happy note with me. I borrowed this image from earlyCJ5.com (great site specializing in the early CJ-5 models.

2. Early 70's Commando, (I actually like the look of the older type but this model has more room under the hood (4" longer wheelbase) ), any color, Chevy Small Block, a little build but not radical, TH400, enough lift for 33's. White wagon wheels, full roll bar, and a loud exhaust. The image on the left is Donahoe Racing's 1974 Jeepster Commando desert truck. BTW for those of you that like the old front better there is no real difference in the fronts, you can put a CJ front end right on the later style Commando.

3. 2003-2006 TJ Rubicon Unlimited - 3" lift, 35 BFG Mud Terrains, soft top, 9000 lb Warn winch, and all kinds of other goodies like a High Lift, Cobra All-in-One CB and on board air. I'd like one of these for my regular trail Jeep, not over the top but a solid tried and true Jeep, real nice for the street and a good time on the trail.

4. CJ-5 or CJ-7 to go Racing With - I have been a fan of EC4WDA racing forever, some day I'll do it! As usual a Chevy V8, automatic, etc...

5. Late 70's - Early 80's Jeep Cherokee FSJ - I don't know a whole lot about these but they are cool. Lifted with 33-35's, AMC360, headers, nice exhaust.

6. Willy's CJ-3B - Personally, I am not a fan of stock Jeeps (but I respect them) and in this case I am not making an exception. I'd like this Jeep lifted, 33's, 300 HP Chevy Small Block, fenderwell headers, Muncie 4 speed and a full roll bar. Disc brakes in the front with a dual master cylinder. Made for the street - a sleeper.

7. Any year CJ-7 - As long as it has a V8 (AMC or Chevy), lifted with 33-35's.

Yes, there is the predicability of me. V8's and 33-35" tires are my thing.

I could probably go on but I am going to stop here. I didn't mention a JK because there's one on the way. See the article The Official jeepfan.com Wrangler JK Unlimited. Of course with all these Jeeps would have to come the unending supply of funds, oversized pole building, and all the time to keep these things running. ~~~~

What's my Jeep worth?

I get many questions from my fellow Jeepers asking "What's my Jeep worth?" The inquiries come in all forms from the impossible-to-give-an-answer-due-to-no-details like: "I have a 74 CJ-5, what's it worth?" to the way-too-much-detail like: "I have a 74 CJ-5, AMC304, T15, etc..." In short, regardless of what you ask me I cannot give an answer.

The worth of a used Jeep (or anything at that) is purely being able to find someone willing to pay for it. I have found over my years of being Jeep obsessed I can look at a Jeep for sale and somehow in my head figure if the asking price listed is something I would be willing to do.

I think good advice for someone selling a used Jeep is look at your Jeep from the buyers perspective. Figure out all that has been put into it except for your labor and be realistic. Labor is usually not worth much if anything. I probably spent years working on a Jeep if I added it all up. If you have kept receipts for all your parts (usually something shocking if you add them all up) make them available to the potential buyer.

My best advice about figuring out what your Jeep is worth. Look at eBay, find other used Jeeps, surf the net, look for Jeep related forums and see what others are selling and how much they are selling it for.

I read somewhere that old Jeeps are rarely rare, collectible, or otherwise...I don't believe it. I can justify any Jeep purchase easily. "It needed to be rescued."

Rubicon production ramping up

I have read on several Jeep news sites that Jeep was stepping up production on 2007 Rubicons. Personally, I really haven't seen any Rubicons on dealer's lots around me. The one dealer in the article indicated that they have had 37 orders for Rubicons alone. Several have been delivered or are currently under construction. They reported that all 28 of the pending orderes went into D status (Firm Schedule Date). The news sites also reported other dealers saying the same. I can only hope my JK is in there too!

Related article Official jeepfan.com 2007 JK Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon. This article contains info on DCX order codes.

Jim's 1951 Willy's 2 Door Station Wagon

Question:
Trying to find someone that can help identify my Jeep. I have a lot of "hear-say" info from the original purchaser from the U. S. Army, but nothing in writing to back his story up. I believe it is a 1951 civilian station wagon 4x4, purchased by the Army as an experiment with using them as Litter Carriers. According to Military Vehicles Mag the Army bought 1,000 as a test. It has the military ID tag on the glove compartment door. It was purchased at a Salvage sale at Camp Atterbury, Indiana by a neighbor, when the camp closed in 1954. I bought it from the son of the purchaser. I have "hear-say" from a couple of members of the hospital unit there during the Korean War period, that remember driving it. But nothing of real proof. Any ideas or a place to go to ?? Thanks, Jim West

Answer: Gee Jim, I have no idea and am stumped. We typically only cover domestic Jeeps but I'll post your info and maybe some of the military Jeep buffs can shed some light.

See the full article: Jim's 1951 Willy's 2 Door Station Wagon

Wrangler JK - New position for the steering box.

Remember how the CJ, YJ, and TJ all had their steering box mounted on the inner front frame rail just waiting to be smacked on something. Well Jeep changed that on the new Wrangler JK. It now sits back, behind the radiator, on top of the frame inside the engine compartment. Now that's a nice re-design! (Thanks del4s for the image)

Stop my old CJ!

Question: I want to do a brake conversion on my 1968 CJ5. I'd like to ditch the old front drums and install discs. What's my options? Jim Funk

Answer: Great question with a couple of options. The pre-72 CJ's used a Dana 25/27 front axle which was equipped with the closed knuckle u-joints. OPTION: Swapping a Dana 30 (with factory discs) from a 76-81 CJ would be a bolt-in only requiring a few changes. Namely steering linkages, brake lines (they will need changes anyway), and potential gear ratio difference. OPTION: Install a front disc setup from a 76-77 CJ using the 1-1/8" rotors (in late 77 and 78 it was changed to the 1-7/8" rotor. The above years used a caliper mount that installed on the outside of the 6 bolt spindle. I won't describe the exact procedure here but the spindle needs to be removed, longer bolts need to be added to facilitate the caliper mount on top of the spindle, and the brake lines need to be altered. OTHERS: I have seen several sites out there that list ways of adapting 70's GM truck brakes to the Dana 25/27. I have never been a fan of "making stuff work" when it comes to brakes. MASTER CYLINDER: The 67-71 Jeeps used a dual circuit master cylinder, others out there indicate that the 10lb pressure valve needs to be removed or the front brakes will drag. A 2lb should be installed to not allow too much fluid to return.

Wide-Trak CJ-5 - Question

Question: I'd like to know if later model CJ-7 wide track axles will fit in my 76 CJ-5? Will Keith
Answer: Definitely! This conversion is practically a bolt it. 76-86 CJ's all used the same mounts for the axles. Potential snags...brake lines, e-brake lines, and shock mounts. See the article Wide Track CJ with ARB Air Lockers I did it!

AMC Engine Swap-Ability

Question: I have an 86 Grand Wagonner with the AMC 360 engine. I am rebuilding a 71 AMC 360. Any problems with swapping the engines? I am especially curious about the crank shaft to transmission hook up. Thank you, Jeffrey

Answer: All the AMC V8's used the same outer mounting points including the crankshaft output flange. So swapping one year AMC with another usually is not a problem.

See AMC360 Rebuild for some rebuilding information.

Ry and Matt's JK Twins

Ry and his brother Matt from Pennsylvania get the distinction of being the first JK's featured in the Readers Jeeps section. Ry and Matt's JK Unlimiteds are both X models in Red Rock Crystal paint with soft tops. Ry's Jeep has a 6 speed and Matt's is automatic. Matt's Jeep has 4.10's with a trac-loc. See more Ry and Matt's JK Twins